Video - In the spirit of a picture being worth a thousand words, we're
making the following instructional video, featuring the inimitable KBK,
available in
quicktime format. It's a rather large file (11 megabytes), so we
suggest downloading it (patiently!) in its entirety before attempting to
play it.
Click Here to Download
Goo Rolling Video
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Rolling Instructions:
Step
1 - Choose the right roller: We suggest using a 1/4 inch nap, wool and
polyester blend roller. Choose a roller whose label indicates that it is for
smooth and gloss surfaces. We do NOT recommend using foam rollers.
Step 2 - Surface Preparation and Determination of Screen Size: Screen Goo
can be applied to any smooth paintable surface. Many materials other than the
products listed below can be used successfully. For best results the surface
should be flat and smooth. If the surface to be coated is not smooth, it should
be sanded down and wiped off prior to applying the Screen Goo Reflective Coat.
Porous surfaces such as drywall, gyproc, and wood based materials such as
plywood, particle board, MDF, should be sealed with a flat, white latex primer
prior to applying Screen Goo Reflective Coat. Colored surfaces should also be
primed with a flat, white latex.
We recommend mounting your projector in its permanent location before
determining the actual screen dimensions. Once the projector is mounted you
should project an image onto your surface and adjust for image geometry. The
width of the image at the top of the screen should be the same as the width at
the bottom and likewise the sides of the image should have the same height.
Finally you should check that the image is level and square in the corners. Now
you are ready to mask off the area you will be coating with a high quality
painters tape. If you intend to create a border around your screen you should
allow an extra inch around all sides so that the coated surface will be slightly
larger than your projected image
Step 3 - Reflective Coat: Rolling this product is a bit
trickier than rolling normal latex paint. This means that attention must be paid
to application method and roller handling. Some users report improved results
with a light sanding of the Reflective Coat; we see no disadvantage to this, but
only the Reflective Coat layers should be sanded and then only after allowing
for a minimum 24 hour drying period prior to sanding.
Place about 200mL of Reflective Coat in the paint tray to do your first coat.
Dab some on one side of the roller, rotate and dab some on the other. Squeeze
out any excess coating by rolling on the slanted portion of the paint tray.
Don't press too hard. Depending on your screen height, you should have enough
paint on the roller to complete approximately two adjacent vertical columns.
Roll the coating in columns using vertical strokes covering the full height of
the screen. The coating density should be just sufficient to cover the
underlying surface. After the first column is complete, apply the second full
column, adjacent to the first, with a slight overlap between the columns. The
roller should now have very little paint left on it. You're now ready to do your
first finishing stroke. Center the roller above the overlap, making sure the
open end of the roller (which receives less pressure) is facing the just coated
side of your screen surface, so that the overlapping layer will have a lightly
feathered edge. The wire support side of the roller mechanism naturally presses
harder on the surface of the screen, so it should be oriented to the least
recently coated side of the screen. Using just enough pressure to get the roller
turning, do an uninterrupted stroke from just above the top edge of the screen
to just below the bottom edge. It's important not to stop the roller during the
finishing stroke as this could cause marks in the finished surface. Following
the same procedure, roll two adjacent columns at a time with finishing strokes
in between until you've covered the entire viewing surface. Allow the Reflective
Coat to dry thoroughly (typically 1-1.5 hrs.) and then repeat the above
procedures for the second layer of Reflective Coat.
VERY IMPORTANT!
Even after following these instructions to the letter, your wet surface will
have a streaky appearance and the overlaps between the columns will be clearly
visible. THIS IS NORMAL! While we realize that this is a bit counter-intuitive,
and
the surface will dry to a uniform consistency and color. Resist the temptation
to go back over your work because re-rolling the coating after it has begun to
dry (about 2-3 minutes after application) will cause textural differences,
potentially resulting in permanent streaks.
The following before and after photos
show what you can expect a correctly applied wet surface to look like and the
uniformity of the same surface after it has dried. There's also a screen shot of
an image projected on that same surface.
Before Drying
After Drying
Screen Shot
Step 4 - Finish Coat: After allowing the Reflective Coat to dry,
carefully repeat the above procedures to apply two coats of Finish Coat.
Very important! The finishing strokes should be done no more than 2-3 minutes
after the original paint strokes in a given area. Attempting finishing strokes
after this time period has elapsed will cause the appearance of vertical
streaks. This is the result of a difference in texture caused by re-rolling
coating which has begun to dry! UNLIKE Reflective Coat, THE Finish
Coat LAYERS MUST NOT BE SANDED OR ABRADED UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES.

Step 5 - Ultra Black: Your Goo Kit includes a 250mL jar of
Ultra Black, a specially formulated light absorptive coating, and a foam
applicator brush. This is to permit the creation of an optional black border
around your screen. The simplest method of creating a border is to purchase
pre-cut wood trim at your local hardware store, coat it with the Ultra Black and
install it around your Goo viewing surface. If you wish to apply Ultra Black
directly to your wall, use a good quality painter's tape and mask out an area
2-3 inches around the perimeter of the viewing area and then apply the Ultra
Black with the provided foam applicator. The Finish Coat surface must be
thoroughly dry before applying masking tape (minimum 24 hrs). After allowing 4-6
hours for the Ultra Black to dry, slowly and carefully remove the painter's tape
covering the border.
Curing Times: The product can be used immediately after rolling
or spraying and will look very good after the first day, but its performance
will continue to improve for up to 3 months by which time The acrylic mixtures
should be fully cured and clarified.
Following these instructions when applying Screen Goo will give you a uniform
high-performance screen surface that will look fantastic for many years to come.
Sit back and enjoy, you won't believe your eyes!
Close up of a fresh Topcoat application over
the dry Basecoat layers. A visible texture is desired.
Spraying Instructions:
Surface preparation: Please ensure that the surface to be coated is
clean and grease-free. The smoother the surface the better finished product
will be.
Porous surfaces such as drywall, gyproc, and wood based materials such as
plywood, particle board, MDF, should be sealed with a flat, white latex
primer prior to applying Screen Goo Reflective Coat. Coloured surfaces
should also be primed with a flat, white latex.
User preparation: Experienced spray painters will find Screen Goo quite
easy to work with. If you've never used a paint sprayer before, please
consider doing a rolled application instead. If you'd like this to be your
first venture into paint spraying, may we suggest that you take the time to
familiarize yourself with your equipment by experimenting with some less
expensive coatings in inconspicuous areas, prior to attempting your Goo
masterpiece!
Suggested equipment: We recommend using an HVLP and/or pressurized cup
spray system employing a gun with a 1.5-2mm tip diameter. The specific type
of gun is less important than the user's familiarity with it. It is very
important that none of the spray equipment be contaminated with
solvent-based coatings or cleaning agents as these will ruin the water-based
Screen Goo coatings.
Reflective Coat: Screen Goo Reflective Coat should be thinned 5-10% by
volume with filtered or distilled water prior to a sprayed application. If
using a pressurized cup system, set the air/paint mixture in the following
manner:
Turn off the atomizing pressure. Set the paint tank pressure so
that when the trigger is fully depressed the paint stream will travel about
two feet. Set the atomizing pressure at a approximately 10X the PSI of the
paint tank pressure or enough to completely atomize the coating. If there is
no gauge for cup pressure, set the atomizing pressure to a maximum of 44
PSI. For other types of guns, follow the manufacturer's instructions for
high solids, water-based coatings.
Keep the gun at a constant 6" - 8" away from the project. Release the trigger
at the end of each stroke. Then, depress the trigger and overlap the
previous pass by about 1/3. Continue in this fashion for consistent
coverage. When the surface is fully and evenly covered, let dry for 30-45
minutes and then repeat the procedure for the second and final coat of
Reflective Coat.
Finish Coat: Screen Goo Finish Coat will not require thinning. Follow
the same procedure as for the Reflective Coat but allow 45-60 minutes drying
time between the two coats of Finish Coat.
How to join 2 or more substrates in order to make very large
screens
One of the things you can do with Screen Goo is make screen of ANY SIZE
and/or ANY SHAPE. In this case you may need to join 2 or more pieces of a
substrate surface - PVC, PCB, MDF, Wood, etc. etc. - in order to make a large
single surface.
Our first suggestion is that you hire a drywall
company/contractor who will have experience in taping, mudding and preparing a
joint surface for painting. If this isn't possible, then online instruction
would be advised; something like this:
http://video.google.ca/videosearch?rlz=1C1GGLS_en-USCA296CA303&sourceid=chrome&q=drywall+taping+and+mudding&um=1&ie=UTF-8&ei=3zbhSeHhCMvrnQfPiqWrCQ&sa=X&oi=video_result_group&resnum=4&ct=title#
Our second important suggestion is that the mudding or putty or compound or
any other material that covers the joint between the substrate pieces is
NON-SOLVENT-based. Solvent-based materials will come through the paint and will
destroy your work.
In any case you will need to make sure that the mudding that covers the joint
between the pieces has COMPLETELY DRIED and CURED, BEFORE you apply your Screen
Goo Reflective Coat and then Finish Coat, otherwise the wet mudding may come
through the Screen Goo coatings and be visible when you throw your projector's
strong light on it.
You also may need to seal the surface with a flat, white
latex primer prior to applying Screen Goo Reflective Coat followed by the Finish
Coat.
Rather not paint Goo yourself?
- Not
comfortable with painting your Goo screen yourself? Click here to locate a qualified
painting professional in your area.
Material Safety Data Sheets (MSDS)
MSDS for
Screen Goo Reflective Coats - Screen Goo Reflective Coats (Reference White,
High Contrast Lite, High Contrast)
MSDS for
Screen Goo Finish Coats - Screen Goo Finish Coats (Reference White, High
Contrast Lite, High Contrast, Max Contrast, Rear Projection)
MSDS for
Screen Goo Ultra Black - Ultra Black
MSDS for
Screen Goo Ultra Silver 3D - Ultra Silver 3D Finish Coat
MSDS for
Screen Goo Flow Release
- Flow Release
An ideal spray gun for Screen Goo
overstock.com -
This spray gun, in addition to being quite inexpensive, works beautifully with
all Screen Goo coatings.
Spray gun settings from SATA
goosystems.com -
SATA of Germany, manufacturers of premium spray gun systems, have developed a
detailed list of optimized settings for the use of three of their guns in
applying Screen Goo.